Houston … We Have The Pretty

2 steps forward, 2 steps back

This weekend was straight out of Paula Adbul’s “Opposites Attract” All about 2 steps forward and 2 steps back.

The back part: drywall won, house of winz lost.  We are hiring out a pro to do the drywall and mudding.  We just don’t have the time, desire or skill to do it right at the moment, at least for an entire room.

The forward part.  We have more pretty!  We went up to Richmond to check out some salvage shops for moulding, columns, claw foot tubs, and other decorative pieces for the house and left with lighting.   We now have our pendent lights and our dining room table light.  One of which we scored on a discount due to a mislabeled tag.

The pendents from from Crate and Barrel, Damen Pendant Light.  Exactly the style and size we were looking for and at a very attractive price of $60 per light.

2 of these please!

Across the walkway over in Pottery Barn we scored the Rustic Glass Pendant at 14″ in diameter.   This was supposed to be $199, but it was mislabeled at $159, after some explaining to a, um, not happy salesperson, we ordered said light.  We also scored some really cute knitted silverware stockings and a bean bag chair for The Imp.  All in all a great day!

It reminds us of an old school glass fuse.

Totes adorbs!

Making a House Accessible

I could start this off with an old In Living Color skit, but that would be off color, bonus if you know which one without consulting The Oracle.  Part of our renovations involve open doorways up, increasing gaps around the kitchen island and wireless environment and lighting controls.  I used to work with Section 8 and ADA grant compliance and applications and the State has a program homeowners can apply for to gain a tax credit.

Bringing the kitchen and den to the downstairs starts the process of making everything accessible.  ADA suggests a minimum of a 34″ door opening with 36-38″ being optimal.  Entryways must also have a no step entrance.  Hallways should be at least 36″ wide.  We replaced the sliding glass door with an on grade 38″ inward swinging door.  In addition the main entry to the great room will be widened to 38″ and the door itself removed.  Our hallways are already 36″ wide.  The entry from the garage is 32″ and can be opened to 34 or 36″ fairly easily.  The door is 1′ above grade so to adhere to the no step entrance requirement, we will build a removable 12:1 ratio ramp.

By removing the partition walls in the bathroom, we have opened up a wheelchair capable turning radius.  The shower will be modified with a rail adjustable shower head and knobs.

ADA suggests a minimum of 42″ of space between an island and surrounding cabinets and other obstructions.  We have planned our spacing to be 24″ on the sink and pantry side and 48″ on the stove side.  In addition our island has two 1′ overhangs to allow for a wheelchair to slide under for eating.

Lastly we are integrating a wireless lighting system to control our 13 recessed LED lights and a wireless thermostat as well.  Sound, lights and environmental controls will be accessed via an iPad that will live downstairs permanently.

Why are we doing this you ask?  One because our parents and grandparents are getting older and can’t climb stairs or maneuver as well as the younger generations.  Secondly, this allows us access to our main areas should anything, God forbid, happen to one of us that causes mobility impairment.

These go to 11.

Eleven. Exactly. One louder.

We are waiting on the final inspection for the electrical work.  Oh yes, the downstairs is lit up like Clark Griswold’s house on Christmas eve, but in LED’s.  Herself’s and mine’s thoughts have turned towards sound.

Let there be light!

Herself, The Wife, has always wanted integrated wireless music in a house.  Homearama’s and binging on HGTV will do that to you.  She asks the resident geek (hi!) how can we do this.  Herein lies the problem.

We have boucoup Apple stuff: Macbook Pro, 2 iPhones, 2 iPads (thanks work!), a mac mini (media server) , apple tv 2 and a single airport express.  We could go with airports and an amp in every room, but that’s a bit of a pain in the ass and would limit whole house streaming and leaves you tied to your device.  So we are looking at Polk Audio’s Omni collection and Sonos Connect and Connect Amp.

Contestant #1. Is cheaper, loves to integrate. Hasn’t been around as long.

Contestant #2: been around awhile, has airplay, not a cheap date.

Why don’t you just get a wireless airplay speaker or a standalone Play-fi or Sono speaker you ask?  Because we want to minimize the amount of cable and crap on surfaces, and I am installing in ceiling speakers, that’s why.  Plus we still want to use the Sony AV receiver I’ve had for almost 8 years, and we could use Papa’s old handbuilt amps from his GE days.

Each has its pros and cons.  Sonos is the king, Polk is all about sound engineering and not tying you down to a single brand, plus it’s cheaper.  Sonos creates its own wifi network but its more expensive.    The plan is to have 4 speakers in the den and 1 or 2 in the kitchen, then another 1 or 2 zones upstairs to be installed at a later date.   The questions come down to:

1) Which system and why.

2) Separate Den and Kitchen zones or not.

Answers must be in essay form and are due by the end of the week.  Bonus points will be given for illustrations, alternative ideas and smartassery.

Na na na na. Na na na na….. Batman!

Spent the afternoon working on this to be turned into a massive wall decal for The Imp’s new room.  🙂

Name that skyline!

We built this city

Ok, so it’s a small partition wall and not a city, but I couldn’t think of anything wall related that’s not too corny.  Last Saturday I put up an L shaped partition for the kitchen cabinet and fridge overhang and to better build out the future bar location.

I can do pretty photos on occasion.

The wall is to be a foot long at its smallest part and 2 feet at its longest.  The L part comes up to counter height.  Step one is to gather thy lumber.  Proceed to the store of choice and being the process of annoying the folks that work in the lumber section.  How do you annoy them you ask?  By pulling 2×4 studs out and checking each for warping, bowing, and splits.  If they don’t cut the mustard, then return them to the rack.  The associates get annoyed because there is now a nice stack of lumbar in disarray.

Cut the sill plate to 22 inches and the top plate to 10 inches  These measurements allow for the butting of vertical studs and drywall where the final measurement is 24 and 12 respectfully.  Measure out the locations of the vertical studs and mark.

Measuring

More measuring

Stack the plates together and measure the distance from the ceiling to the top of the stack.  This will be the length of the stud(s) under the top place.

Lots of measuring.

Fasten the top and sill plates, checking that they are flush and square with the wall.  Fasten two vertical studs to the top plate, one against the wall, the other butting against the top plate.  Measure out a shorter stud where the height is 34″ and fasten to the end of the sill plate.  Measure a second stud to 32.5 and fasten to the 2nd tall stud.  Now measure for a cap piece.  Check for level and square on all studs and caps.

Tall and small

Bar starts here, 2 smaller studs were added for additional support of the cap and the cross piece. 

I love it when a plan comes together.

Over the weekend a couple of things happened.  First, Herself’s father found the original plans to the house.  For the most part they are readable except where there was some kind of spillage that bled the ink.  It’s nice to see what was planned, and what was actually built and/or what the grandparent’s  modified.

Sheet 1, it was supposed to be a split level on a slope.

Sheet 2 – elevations

Sheet 3 – upstairs

Sheet 4 – downstairs

Sheet 5 – details

I scanned them it at work to clean them up but decided that it might be better to create new sketches of at least the floor plans.  The below plans are my work and are not as detailed because 1: that level of detail is not needed for what we are doing, and 2: Damnit Jim, I’m a cartographer not an engineer! Please ignore the “you haven’t paid for me yet” watermarks.

1st floor, showing new kitchen, partial wall and new layout

2nd Floor, no improvements shown.

Where the den and kitchen are upstairs will be the new master bedroom and bathroom.  The nook we are planning on making a playroom, or chopping off part of the den to use as one.  The Teenager, my niece, will eventually take the current master, The Imp gets the larger of the two bedrooms and Future Child #2 will have the smaller bedroom.  I’ll post about building a partial wall later.

Weird Science… Oh!

It’s electric, boogie boogie.

That image is the reason I don’t like to play electrician when dealing with the breaker box. Our electrician should be coming in the next week to start running lines for the new lights and appliances for the kitchen and great room.  This will also involve cutting into the concrete pad and laying a submerged line for the island as building codes require stationary islands to have power.  We will be using LED recessed lights in the ceiling, because we care about the environment, yo.  Actually, because LEDs are cheaper in the long run, halogens run too warm and suck energy, and florescent lights just plain suck.  Two cabinets will have puck lights for decorative purposes.  We will be hanging 3 pendents over the Big Assed Island (6’x6′, seats 4) and a chandlier type fixture over the dining room table.

Wayfair, has everything you need….

The above pendents are what we are going to go with.  I was actually able to talk Herself, The Wife from going with the $400+ a piece fixture for these, a happy medium we both love.  The chandelier hasn’t been decided on but is kind of sort of like the sample below, but different.

Wayfair, bloody expensive lighting…..

Now the moment you’ve all been waiting for: the schematics for the lights.  Enjoy and please wipe up the drool when you leave.

Layout for our electrician.

The whole shebang. Notice the monstrosity that is the 2.5 car garage.

Do you know what time it is? Its Tool Time!

Not every post can be about destruction, how-to, or the pretty.  Sometimes you just need filler fluff. That makes it tool time here at the House of Winz.  Below are brief overviews to some of the equipment that have been used in the renovations so far.  Unfortunately, while I do not have an Al to make fun of, I do have a Way Hot Assistant.

Way Hot Assistant: Herself ,The Wife

Basic Tools:

Hammer: Estwing 16 oz rip claw hammer.  This is small and light enough for tapping in nails for hanging photos and closing paint cans, but heavy enough for knocking studs into place and the rip claw is great for ripping out furring strips and drywall.

It’s hammer time.

Measuring Tools: Stanley magnetic 25′ tape measure, angle finger, and a speed square.  The tape is accurate and it works.  A speed square is a great multipurpose tool that can be used for marking out 45 and 90 degree angles, and serves as a cutting guide for a circular saw.  An angle finder is good for transferring an angle from one area to another.  Say a notch is more than 45 degrees, the angle finder will mold to fit and can then be transferred to the new wood.

General Tools: Torpedo level, pens and pencils, utility knife, flat and phillips head screwdrivers, 6″ adjustable wrench, needle nose pliers, nail puller/wrecking bar, paint key, masonry chisels. A torpedo level is a small level that is great for small or tight fitting areas. They are usually about 6-12 inches long.  Pens are ballpoint and fine point sharpies, usually one of each. Pencils that I use are mechanical drafting pencils that are on extended loan from work, I make maps and plans for a living.  Do not buy cheap screwdrivers, they will break on you, wear out fast and/or destroy the screws you are using in no time flat.  I have a 12 year old set of Craftsman flatheads and phillips that I use, generally a standard size of each is kept in the pouch.  As with screwdrivers don’t skimp on wrenches.   The adjustable wrench I use harkens back from my theatre tech days and opens to 1 inch wide.  The needle nose pliers are about 12 years old as well and are in great shape.  A nail puller and wrecking bar is used a chisel, hammer, prybar and an “encouragement tool” for the help.  I have no idea who made mine, I’ve had it for 5 years. A paint key is whats used to open cans and beer bottles.

Tool Belt: I have a McGuire-nicholas belt that holds pretty much everything I need, its made out of cordura nylon and fits pretty well.  The pouches can be removed and placed in different areas due to hook and loop fasteners.  One day I’ll wear it with jeans and a plaid shirt for the Way Hot Assistant to fawn over.

Tool Belt.

Power Tools:

Reciprocating Saw: Ryobi One+ saw with Milwaukee wrecker blades.  This is a great tool that can cut through pretty much anything, including you!  Standard blades fit and the guard can be adjusted or removed.  Its lightesh and pretty comfortable to hold left or right handed.  It kills batteries though.

It slices, it dices, it eats batteries for breakfast lunch and dinner!

Circular Saw: 10 year old corded saw I inherited from my dad.  Great for cutting studs, notches, and most things where you need a straight cut.  I have ripped plywood with this using a framers level as a guide.

Cordless Drill: Ryobi One+ cordless drill.  Fit is pretty well, as is balance.  I use this for drilling holes in things, or Herself uses it when I have the impact driver.  Keyless chuck and adjustable clutch with good power.

Drill, baby, drill!

Impact Driver: Ryobi One+ impact driver.  It has one mission in life and that is to drive screws.  A drill works, but an impact driver does it better and faster.  This will sink a 3″ screw into a stud in seconds. It’s also lighter and more compact than a drill.

Brrrt. Brrrt. Screw done. Wash, rinse, repeat.

I went with Ryobi for a few reasons.  One their manufacturer also makes Rigid and Milwaukee tools, so the guts are practically identical but a 1/3 of the price because of the outer casings.   Also, a cordless system should have a common battery and this series will take lithium, high capacity lithium and Ni-Cad batteries.  Lastly, they were presents from my family.  I also have a small Ryobi screwgun for outlets and general small screwing needs.

Way Hot Assistant: She mine! You can’t have her, and I don’t share!

Gigawatt smile.

Mine!

Another brick in the wall

Good note to remember, walls should not remind you of either the Hoover Dam or a recurve bow. Walls should be plumb.  Giant JJ does not approve of bowed walls.

Giant JJ has found the wall wanting

Upon examination no termite or moisture damage was found, this was good.  However, a gap large enough to fit a finger through was found.  This is bad.  Have I mentioned this was an exterior wall, and a corner to boot?  The diagonal slat was pushing out the stud.

The stud in question

Not as bad in other spots

Time to replace a stud.  Because this is a corner and and exterior wall, plus I didn’t want to build a temporary wall, I sistered in a new stud before removal and then placed another stud in the original location.

Unless you like being buzzed or being the um, persons of questionable intelligence shown on Renovation Realities, cut off power to any circuits that are located near the work area. Remove the wire and outlet box attached to the stud.

Measure the distance from the top plate to the sill plate of a straight stud, mark on a new 2×6 stud and cut with a chop saw or circular saw.  When hunting for new stud wood, do not be afraid to mess up the stores pile to find ones that are not bowed or warped.  I grabbed 2.  In this case, I also had to carve out a notch for the diagonal.  Measure the upper and lower locations, transfer to the stud and cut out with a saw.

Twisted sister and straight as a board sister.

Now, this new stud is going to be a tight fit. Plant the bottom against the old stud and manouver the top of the new stud in place at an angle until the use of blunt force trauma is required.  Using a hammer, press the top of the stud into place. Make sure the top and bottom ends are flush with the plates.  At this time a very loud POP was heard.  This was the diagonal slat being relieved of pressure and snapped back into place.  I used Spax #10 3 inch screws toenailed at the top and bottom of the stud after checking for plumb.  Observation of the old stud showed a significant gap between the top plate and the stud.

Almost a 1/2″ gap

A quick run of the sawzall to cut and nails along the top, bottom and back of the stud allowed for easy removal.  A second stud was added after notching and sistered against the new stud. This was also fastened with screws.  In addition, several screws were run to join the two together.

Hey soul sister……

A new 3/4″ hole was drilled for the wire and the outlet box attached.  The wall is now in much better shape.  A noticeable bow and warp were found on the old stud.

I love the smell of mold in the morning

Firstly, I apologize for the lag in posts.  It was a 4 day weekend, herself was out of town for school and I was in charge of the Imp.  We just didn’t have time for posting.  In other news, this past weekend was all about mold and bowed walls mitigation.

Our journey starts with the removal of every square foot of vertical drywall in the great room.  This was done because the drywall was butt ugly and also to test all studs for termite damage.  When rounding the corner, what should appear?  White and black fuzzies staring back in jeer.  The black wood was moisture and termite damage.

Only thing worse would be active termites.

After a few choice words, and a massive coughing fit, mitigation began.  First, all surface cooties were brushed and cleaned off and any bad wood was removed.  Next, the wall was carpet bombed with bleach and allowed to dry.  Ride of the Valkyries may or may not have been hummed at this time.

Post napalming with bleach.

Raw cinder block is not allowed in this house, whether is covered by sheetrock or not.  A trip to my favourite Home Despot (yes, this is what I call them) and a gallon of Dryloc was purchased.  This was brushed on and allowed to dry.  A second coat will be added this week.  The wall is much prettier now, and more importantly has no more mold, mildew or bad wood.  Next up, fixing a bowed wall.

Post mitigation.